drawing on transparency on screen Right- finished stencil on left. http://www.store.cbridge.com/c/PEZ/PhotoEZ+Products.html
Easy as PhotoEZ claims it is. First try was on 8 mm habotai, with Jacquard Water Based Resist straight out of the bottle- stencil lines did bleed out so that each line was about double the drawn width.
They did not “fuzz”. Ok on this particular design. A finer line to start with should compensate.
#2 Sprayed the field with Magic sizing allowed to dry , then applied exactly the same above so only 1 variable. Less “bleed’ but did not completly retain drawn width.
#3 Incomplete- waiting for silk to dry* but will try Jacquard No flow applied to clean silk, then stencil and see which is better.
* My fault- the stencil shifted and shadowed the rose so washed out the gutta and sizing to start over.
PhotoEZ Products www.store.cbridge.com
On The Silk Painting Gallery NetworkI was asked about the melting temperature for wax. Different waxes have different temperatures in which they will melt. Short rule of thumb is to use the lowest temperature to melt the wax and stay liquid. If you see smoke it is way too hot!
I use a fondue pot with a thermostat on it to regulate the temperature. You might try a small electric skillet or a crock pot if you can see the exact temperature on it.
There have been much discussion on soy wax lately so let’s start there.
When painting or applying wax if you see it turn white as you are applying it has cooled off too much. You must paint quickly. I usually hold a plate under my brush to keep the wax from falling on silk before I intend it to.
These instructions are from one supplier: Prochemical